Book those reservations now at these just-opened places to
eat.
Gaspar Brasserie
Financial district
Atmosphere-wise, Franck LeClerc’s handsome watering hole
feels like a ménage à trois between a gentleman’s club, a French prop studio,
and a stack of money. But the fare demonstrates a refreshing lack of
pretension: It’s simple food done very well. Raw oysters come fantastically
cold, plump, and creamy; a chickpea panisse cake boasts a crunchy crust and
creamy innards; and grilled entrecôte steak hews deliciously to tradition.
It’s all unabashedly old school—and deeply satisfying. 185 Sutter St. (at
Kearny St.), 415-576-8800 —Rebecca Flint Marx
Palm House
Marina
Calling Palm House “tropics-inspired” is like calling Capri
Sun fruit-inspired: convincing in concept, slightly less so in practice. The
vibrant hues and dishes like plump “Trinidad-style” grilled gulf white prawns
and guava-pepper pork tacos channel a kind of Caribbean-lite—festive, fun, and
a bit shallow in execution. But they make a perfect accompaniment to the
stellar cocktail list: The lusty, spicy-sweet chipotle-mango margarita is
reason enough to set sail for the Marina. 2032 Union St. (near Buchanan St.),
415-400-4355 —R.F.M.
Causwells
Marina
Industrial meets art deco at this coolly designed little
spot serving classic American food with just the right smidge of chefly
affectation. The excellent burger comes draped with a big fat square of
American cheese, while an heirloom tomato salad enjoys a creative update
courtesy of fried okra, Jimmy Nardello peppers, and melon vinaigrette. The
service is as sweet and welcoming as the doughnut bread pudding, which should
come with a Lipitor chaser. 2346 Chestnut St. (near Divisadero St.),
415-447-6081 —Sara Deseran
The Dock at Linden Street
West Oakland
At this warehouse-chic build-out next to the Linden Street
Brewery, the small-batch beer flows freely and Commis chef James Syhabout lets
his imagination loose. The result is global bar food, ranging from oyster po’
boys to yakitori-style grilled corn to a falafel “waffle” with merguez sausage
and a cooling splash of lebni, or strained yogurt. Much of the grub is fried, a
fair bit of it is spicy, and all of it begs for sudsy lubrication. Think of it
as happy hour from many time zones, all under one roof. 95 Linden St. (near 3rd
St.), 510-338-3965 —Josh Sens
Originally published in the October issue of San Francisco
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