Mission Guide


About Mission Dolores





Sunny, flat, and centrally located, the Mission represents the heart and especially the soul San Francisco. Equally attractive to immigrants and a burgeoning herd of hipsters in ironic t-shirts, the Mission is still the melting pot of San Francisco. Here you'll find traditional Mexican taquerias and  panaderias, pop up galleries, freshly minted block-long live/work lofts in former canneries, and a new generation of chefs determined to make their mark and earn a Michelin star. The neighborhood is highly walkable: a major urban shopping center at 16th and Potrero offers groceries, a gym, post office, office supplies, and a Peets Coffee. The museum district at 3rd and Howard is nearby, and the ball park is not far. Public Transportation is great. MUNI bus lines crisscross the neighborhoods and there two BART stations at 16th and Mission and 24th and Mission serve the neighborhood.

With the rise of the dot-coms in the mid-90s, the old industrial warehouses of the Mission district were converted into open air, floor through workspaces. These attracted a new kind of immigrant population: educated, highly skilled, and eagerly looking for the next big thing: be it entertainment, dining, culture, or dance club. And they wanted to be able to walk to work, or at least ride their bike.

Housing was developed to match the taste and needs of this generation of newcomers. Many of the old warehouses preserved their old brick facades. Inside luxury interiors feature exposed brick walls, huge timbered beams, two-story high living rooms with airy ceilings, industrial kitchens, and of course, high speed Internet connections.

To learn more, visit our San Francisco real estate market conditions page or scroll down to begin browsing our listings of homes for sale in the Mission.

24th Street

View murals on Balmy Alley.  Photo by Liz Hafalia



                   What's It Like?

 This historic, tree-lined street is known as El Corazon de la Misione, or "the heart of the Mission." The stretch of 24th Street running from Mission Street to Potrero Street boasts a vast number of unique stores and restaurants, as well as the greatest concentration of murals in the city.
There's a BART station at 24th and Mission, and parking in the area can be challenging.

Sights & Culture

Brava Theater Center: In a space that was once the York theater, which was itself once the Roosevelt, which opened in 1926 as a vaudeville house and later morphed into a second-run movie theater, Brava! for Women in the Arts puts on stage productions in what is possibly the only female-owned theater in the country. This 300-seat, 13,000-sq. ft. renovated Deco space hosts plays largely written by women and minorities, as well as holding workshops for kids and adults in most aspects of theater production, from writing to directing to acting. See Web site for calendar of programs. 2781 24th St., between York and Hampshire. 647-2822 (box office). (Web site) 

Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitors Center: The center offers weekend tours of dozens of colorful murals in the neighborhood, explaining the political and social messages behind some of the artwork. Everyone's favorite place to view murals is Balmy Alley, which features more than 30 of them and feels like another country, with its profusion of bougainvillea spilling over garden fences. Balmy runs from 24th Street to 25th Street, between Treat and Harrison streets. Aspiring muralists can purchase art supplies from the Visitors Center or find out how to participate in mural-painting projects. 2981 24th St., at Harrison Street, (415) 285-2287. (Web site) 

Galeria de La Raza: This established Latino art gallery, founded in 1970, features dynamic and sometimes controversial exhibits. 2857 24th St., near Bryant Street, (415) 826-8009. (Web site)

The Mission Cultural Center for Latino Arts: This center also has a gallery, and on many nights you can catch a play or a Latin American movie or take salsa lessons. 2868 Mission St., at 25th Street, (415) 821-1155. (Web site) 

Carnavals/Parades: Three times a year, the Mission hosts Carnaval-style parades, which begin at 24th and Bryant streets and proceed along 24th Street and up Mission Street. Also keep an eye out for the annual Dia de los Muertos procession, a candlelit nighttime event of otherworldly beauty. For more information, call the Mission Economic Cultural Association at (415) 826-1401. (SF Carnaval Web site) 

St. Peter's Catholic Church: This Roman Catholic church is a lesser-known San Francisco landmark, built out of redwood in 1886 for a parish then composed primarily of Irish immigrants. Though a 1997 fire (started by a votive candle) all but destroyed the building and its interior artwork, it has since been restored to pristine condition. Admire the Gothic trompe l'oeil painting inside, then walk around the corner to Florida Street to check out the murals on the adjoining church buildings. The church entrance is on Alabama Street, near 24th Street. (415) 282-1652. (Web site)

 

 Restaurants 

Casa Sanchez: Head for the outdoor patio at Casa Sanchez on sunny days. This taqueria makes its own tortilla chips (it started out in 1924 as a tortilla factory) and serves good Mexican standards such as burritos and enchiladas, but it's known for its slow-roasted pork and homemade salsa. If you like the distinctive logo of the guy riding an ear of corn, order a temporary tattoo with your tamale. 2778 24th St., between Hampshire and York streets, (415) 282-2400. 

Goood Frikin' Chicken: The name is catchy and so are the initials -- GFC -- posted over this new spot offering grilled and rotisserie chicken with a Middle Eastern bent. Both are swathed in a delicious garlic and zatar (a spice mix with sesame seeds) marinade. The chicken meals -- served with crusty flat bread, garlic dip, fresh green salad and a choice of crispy potatoes, hummus and other side dishes -- are a steal at $11.95, which feeds at least three people. There also are great chicken shwarma wraps and other chicken specials. (-SF Chronicle) 10 29th St. (at Mission), (415) 970-2428. (Bargain Bites 2004) 

Joe's Cable Car: The huge signs outside blaring "Joe grinds his own fresh chuck daily" are just the beginning of the messages -- and strict rules -- you'll be exposed to as you enjoy excellent burgers and a root-beer freeze (like a shake). (-SF Chronicle) 4320 Mission St. (at Silver), (415) 334-6699. (Bargain Bites 2004) 

La Copa Loca: Italian-born chef Mauro Pislor uses home recipes and imports all of his ingredients from Italy except for fresh fruit and purees. His signature sundaes combine fruit, purees and gelato to resemble whimsical animals, characters like Pinocchio and, in one case, "spaghetti pomodoro." Pislor makes 26 to 30 flavors a day that run the gamut from pistachio and mango to pear, green apple, and a few soy and sugar-free varieties for diabetics. They're sold in special fluted Italian plastic cups, and if you require more, the gelato is available by the kilo. (-SF Chronicle) 3150 22nd St., (415) 401-7424.

La Palma Mexicatessan: This Mexican food shop and taqueria distinguishes itself by grinding its own corn to make fresh masa for truly remarkable tortillas, which the La Palma staff shape and grill behind the counter. Take-out only. 2884 24th St., at Florida Street, (415) 647-1500.

La Santaneca De La Mission: The down-home cooking is just as good as ever at this long-standing spot. Heaping platefuls of pupusas, corn masa pockets filled with combinations of cheese, beans or pork, and dishes of curtido (pickled cabbage) are the stars. At $1.65 per pupusa, you can afford to try a few and take a few home. Hearty beef soup (sopa de res) is guaranteed to lift your spirits. The plantains, refried beans and tortillas with crema are good comfort foods. Chase it all with a glass of horchata, a cool rice drink. (-SF Chronicle) 2815 Mission St. (at 24th Street), (415) 285-2131. (Chronicle review)

La Taqueria: Everyone has a favorite burrito place, but few can match the quality of this shop that's been in business for 30 years. La Taqueria is unique in that it uses no rice in its burritos -- only beans and succulent meats. Carnitas and fruit drinks are mustorder items. (-SF Chronicle) 2889 Mission St., at 25th Street, (415) 285-7117. (Chronicle review)

Mitchell's Ice Cream: This longstanding family-owned and -operated ice-cream shop makes its product daily, offering unexpected flavors influenced by neighborhood cuisines: try corn, litchi fruit or Mexican chocolate, just as a start. 688 San Jose Ave., at 29th Street, (415) 648-2300. (Web site)

St. Francis Fountain & Candy Store: This authentic, old-fashioned soda fountain, established in 1918, was rescued from a brief closure in 2002 by new owners. The look is more or less the same (soda fountain vintage), but other changes are more fundamental. The ice cream, once made in-house, now comes from Mitchell's (see listing above), and the house-made candies have been replaced by pre-packaged novelty chocolates. But the menu, which features sandwiches, soups and salads, is moderately priced, and a yummy sundae runs just under $3. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 2801 24th St., at York Street, (415) 826-4200.


Trattoria Vogalonga: An intimate little Italian restaurant serving great pizzas, nice tomato-based pastas and good desserts. Waiters subtly encourage couples to linger through the night. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 3234 22nd St. (near Mission Street), San Francisco; (415) 642-0298. (Chronicle review)

 

Shopping

Casa Lucas Market: This is the best place to get yuccas, plantains and 20 limes for a dollar, among other typical Latino produce. 2934 24th St., near Alabama Street, (415) 826-4334.

Studio 24: Operated by Galeria de la Raza, this Mexican folk-art shop stocks an eclectic range of gifts and trinkets, including Day of the Dead paraphernalia, colorful jewelry, ornaments and artwork rendered out of tin, plus Mexican wrestling masks. 2857 24th St. at Bryant Street, (415) 826-8009. (Web site)

Virginia Howells: The contents of the store are spare -- a few racks of clothing, some bags pinned to the wall -- but the details are exquisite; every item has been chosen with care, even those not for sale, like the large black-and-white painting hanging across from the jewelry case and the fancy light fixtures in the dressing room. Owner Jennifer Welch plans to start selling music as well as other kinds of altered vintage goods. (-SF Chronicle) 2839 24th St., (415) 647-2082.

 

 Nightlife

The Attic: Nestled next to a religious statuary and candle shop on 24th Street, a scant 20 paces up from Mission Street, lies the Attic. This bar draws people in with occasional live music and cool DJs. It's a nice place to bring small groups, as the joint doesn't get irredeemably crowded. 3336 24th St., (415) 643-3376.

Pop's: A couple of local veteran bartenders re-opened this neighborhood bar a few years ago, and they've managed to keep it super-friendly and welcoming, something not all Mission bars pull off. Many different types can be seen here: nearby residents, hipsters, dykes, geeks. In addition to a nice variety of draft beers and standard mixed drinks, details include a sit-down arcade game with Dig-Dug and Ms. Pac-Man, one of the more spacious pool tables in town, an old school analog photo booth, a wall-mounted juke box offering a kitschy variety of genres, and vintage kid bikes mounted on the wall. 2800 24th St. at York. 401-7677.

Treat Street: This motorcycle-friendly bar sits on what used to be 24th Street's scariest corner. The cheery owner, formerly a bartender at Shotwell 59, hosts a curbside barbecue most Sunday afternoons. 3050 24th St., at Treat Street, (415) 824-5954.

Velvet Cantina: Great wooden booths, a large bar area and beautiful amber mood lighting should make this new bar a hot spot. That, and the delicious fruit-infused tequilas. Owner Matt Tognazzini has brought in chef Russell Morton, who worked at PlumpJack Cafe, to create a Mexican menu to go with the Mexican bordello theme. 3349 23rd St. (at Bartlett), (415) 648-4142. (Chronicle review | Web site)


Dolores & Valencia Corridor

Sun bathers enjoy the unusual warmth at Dolores Park.

What's It Like?

Not so long ago, Valencia Street was a funky mix of Latino-owned car-repair shops, seedy dives and women-owned stores and bars. Though a number of these businesses still thrive, this area has become quickly gentrified.
Just a couple of blocks away, and parallel to Valencia, is Dolores Street. Hilly, quiet and beautiful, it's shaded by palm trees and lined by grand old Victorians. Dolores Park remains a favorite for those who wish to retreat from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the Mission.

Sights & Culture

Dolores Park: Local residents mentally divide Dolores Park into two distinct worlds. In the bottom half you can play tennis or soccer or walk your dog. In the upper half you can relax and get a stunning view of the city and the East Bay. On warm days, sunbathers and Latino families barbecuing corn and chicken share this portion of Dolores Park.

Mission Dolores: At the corner of 16th and Dolores streets, overshadowed by an ornate basilica, sits a modest adobe chapel, one of the two original missions in San Francisco and the oldest standing building in the city. The inside of the chapel (note the ceiling patterned after Costonoan basket weaving -- Costonoans were the native inhabitants of the area) and the mission's cemetery and gardens will give you a feel for old times. (Web site)

Women's Building Mural: Don't miss the incredible mural on the Women's building on 18th Street, between Valencia and Guerrero streets. (Web site)

826 Valencia Writing Project: Author and publisher Dave Eggers set up this space to provide an educational work space for kids ages 8 to 18 who want to improve their writing skills through free tutoring, or learn new ones in workshops that range from cartooning to computers. The whimsical space also features fake trees, a tented reading space with a barber chair, tiers of curved platforms that climb the wall and a pirate supply store. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 826 Valencia St., (415) 642-5905. (Web site)

 

Restaurants

Boogaloos: This Caribbean-influenced eatery is best visited for weekend brunch, when local residents drift in early or brave late-morning lines to feast on eggs Benedict amid the lava lamps and the bright jumble of artwork. 3296 22nd St., at Valencia Street, (415) 824-3211.


Bruno's: Temporarily closed. (Web site)


Burger Joint: You can find burgers all over the city, but this Mission District spot serves them with Niman Ranch beef, which is free of growth-supporting antibiotics or hormones. The menu has only five items, but the burgers are juicy, the veggie burger better than most and the hand-cut fries are crisp and thick. To fit into its hip Valencia Street location, the colorful decor is a postmodern take on '50s diner style. (-SF Chronicle) 807 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets, (415) 824-3494.

Cafe Ethiopia: An accessible introduction to Ethiopian food, good doro wot and kitfo and a sizable selection of vegetarian dishes. The kitchen is a bit conservative with its seasonings, but dishes that are billed as "hot" do have a smoldering intensity. The dining room is spare almost to the point of utilitarian. (--SF Chronicle, read full Chronicle review) 878 Valencia St. (near 20th Street), (415) 285-2728.

Cafe Petra: This little cafe in Build Gallery's old space carries over an arty sensibility, with its ceiling lined with bamboo and tchotchkes from the cafe's namesake city in Jordan. A slightly bohemian, self-employed set is often found sipping dark roast coffee and surfing the net with Petra's free wireless service. 463 Guerrero St., between 16th and 17th streets. (415) 626-9626.

Cafe Que Tal: One of the few holdouts from the past era of this hip intersection, Que Tal ("what's up" in Spanish) sticks to its guns, serving medium-roasted, strongly brewed coffee, standard lunch items, and a wide variety of medicinal and herbal teas. Sidewalk seating for four gets plenty of afternoon sun. Never too crowded and always offers friendly service. 1005 Guerrero St., between 22nd and 23rd streets. (415) 282-8855

Cha Cha Cha: The cavernous, industrial second location of the ever-popular Haight Street restaurant never fails to pack 'em in. Caribbean small plate favorites include the black beans and plantains, the fried new potatoes and, of course, the sangria. This location gets particularly loud when it's busy, and service can go by the wayside, but it can also accommodate large groups. 2839 Mission St. (at 24th), (415) 282-0283. (Chronicle review of Haight St. location)


Chava's: This locally popular Mexican restaurant features good soups, as well as standard fare, homemade tortillas and a satisfying weekend brunch, all at cheap prices. 2839 Mission St. (at 24th), (415) 282-0283.

Cha-Ya: Vegan diners no longer have to head across the bay for Japanese food -- the chef of Cha-Ya in North Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto has recreated the menu for this casual spot. A variety of ingredients and flavors are combined in fresh, feels-and-tastes-good-for-you vegan dishes like soba noodles and soy vinaigrette garnished with seasonal vegetables; slightly sweet steamed tofu custard with medley of mushrooms, kabocha, soybeans, ginko nuts and other vegetables; and tempura-style eggplant stuffed with potato, corn, seaweed and soybeans. Desserts include a vegan chocolate mousse cake. (-SF Chronicle) 762 Valencia (near 18th Street), (415) 252-7825.

Delfina and Pizza Delfina: Popular Italian-Mediterranean restaurant Delfina pleases critics and neighborhood diners alike. The food has its roots in traditional Italian cooking (Tuscan white beans accompany many a dish), but the mood is distinctly contemporary. Next door, the retro-chic, 24-seat Pizza Delfina offers a menu of six Neapolitan- and New York-inspired pizzas with other daily specials and antipasti. They specialize in takeout. (SF Chronicle/SF Gate) Delfina: 3621 18th St., (between Dolores and Guerrero), (415) 552-4055. (Chronicle review) Pizzeria Delfina: 3611 18th St., (415) 437-6800.

Dolores Park Cafe: This clean and airy café overlooks the foot of Dolores Park and offers a clutch of sidewalk tables. Choose from a menu of creative light fare and blended fruit drinks, in addition to coffee drinks and desserts. 501 Dolores St., at 18th Street, (415) 621-2936. (Web site)

Dosa: One of the few places in San Francisco that focuses on food from South India. Various types of dosas -- savory paper-thin crepes -- come stuffed with spiced potatoes, panir, eggs or spiced lamb. The modern decor rises well above and beyond that of typical hole-in-the-wall Bay Area Indian restaurants. While waiting -- which you probably will, as reservations are only accepted for six or more -- join the ranks by sipping a cilantro-mint mojito or a chai white Russian. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) Dosa, 995 Valencia St. (at 21st Street), (415) 642-3672.

El Majahual: Offers good Colombian food, especially arepas (corn-based pancakes stuffed with cheese). 1152 Valencia St., near 22nd Street, (415) 821-7514.

Firecracker: Outstanding and reasonably priced Chinese food in an elegant, glowing red setting. 1007 Valencia St., at 21st Street, (415) 642-3470. (Chronicle review)

Foreign Cinema: Foreign Cinema has something for everybody: those who like to be entertained, those who like to see and be seen, and those who enjoy great food. The name is derived from the foreign films that play nightly, projected on the wall of the enclosed patio. The dining room features large windows looking out over the action and a chic industrial interior, with high ceilings and a slate-faced fireplace. Partners Gayle Pirie and John Clark worked at Zuni many years, and their food is straightforward and delicious. (-SF Chronicle) 2534 Mission St., (415) 648-7600. (Chronicle review)           

Garcon: French bistro cuisine from the team that opened Cafe Bastille and also have their hands in B44, Plouf and Chouchou. The style is sleek and warm, with a friendly feel, a full bar and a good wine list. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1101 Valencia St. (at 22nd Street), (415) 401-8959. (Chronicle review)
Herbivore: Vegans and non-vegans alike come to this place for healthy, inventive fare, all at bargain prices. The lasagna, stuffed with tofu ricotta and covered in a hearty tomato sauce, is served with garlic bread for a satisfying main course. You can find vegetarian versions of everything from pad Thai to kung pao to shawarma, and of course, the veggie burgers are also great here. (-SF Chronicle) 983 Valencia St., between 20th and 21st streets, (415) 826-5657. (Web site)

Jay's Cheese Steak: Jay's has cheese steak made with Niman Schell natural beef, and it comes in a variety of flavors, like pizza, teriyaki and barbecue (there's even a seitan version for vegetarians). They also serve great Niman burgers, garlic fries, onion rings and buffalo wings. Colorful local art adorns the walls, making Jay's a fun place to eat. 3286 21st Street, between Valencia and Mission streets. (415) 285-5200.

Kiji: Enthusiastic servers, fresh fish and tranquil surroundings, with an extensive menu of sushi and cooked options. Wash down the fish with a three-glass sake sampler. Chef-owner Eddie Hong has previous experience at cult favorite Sushi Groove. (-SF Chronicle) 1009 Guerrero St. (near 22nd Street), (415) 282-0400. (Chronicle review)
La Provence: What's good about La Provence is that it doesn't try to be anything it's not. It knows it's Mediterranean French, so there are no foie gras tourchons, steak frites or other high-end or bistro dishes. Instead, there's a focus on seafood flavored with citrus, fresh herbs and healthy amounts of garlic. The restaurant, decorated with retro travel posters and cicadas, manages to be warm and cheery, yet tasteful and uncluttered. Service is casual and leisurely. (-SF Chronicle) 1001 Guerrero St. (at 22nd Street), (415) 643-4333. (Chronicle review)

La Taqueria: Crowded, loud and bursting with vitality, this famed taqueria draws hordes eager to eat fresh, carefully prepared tacos and burritos. The carnitas are to die for. Seating is on picnic-style benches or on small tables overlooking Mission Street. Cash only. (-SF Chronicle) 2889 Mission St. (at 25th Street); (415) 285-7117. (Chronicle review)

Luna Park: You may need a reservation even early in the week, but once you've reached your table, look forward to a reasonably priced menu of comfort food with a twist. Try reliving the campfires of childhood with a s'mores fondue of chocolate and marshmallow. 694 Valencia St., between 17th and 18th streets, (415) 553-8584. (Chronicle review)
> Luna Park to add delivery

Maxfield's House of Caffeine: Morning sun bathes the sidewalk seating in front of this spacious neighborhood cafe. Inside is comfortable, with a few cushioned chairs and a sofa populated by the "freaks and geeks" set. Maxfield's offers free wireless and hosts open-mic jazz every Sunday from 4 to 7 p.m. 398 Dolores St. at 17th. (415) 255-6859.

Medjool: Three sections include a ground floor cafe serving light fare with a Middle Eastern emphasis; A restaurant and bar-lounge offers Mediterranean small plates; At a mezzanine overlooking the first floor there is more dining and a DJ. The next two floors are a youth hostel, and on the fourth floor the building's developer is planning a roof garden for alfresco brunches. An elevator opens right onto the roof. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 2516 Mission St. (near 21st St.), (415) 550-9055.

Osha Thai Noodle: Skimpy on service and style, this is the younger, hipper sister version of the Tenderloin late-night favorite. The noodles really star -- try the lath nah with Chinese broccoli and mushroom gravy, the spicy pan-fried noodles or one of the huge bowls of steamy soup. Spicy string beans with strips of pork are also good. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 819 Valencia St. (near 20th Street); (415) 826-7738. Also at 696 Geary St. (Chronicle review/Bargain Bites 2004)

Papa Toby's Revolution Cafe: Sidewalk tables at Papa Toby's get great afternoon sun, and if it's cold, the patio heaters will keep you warm. The place is typically filled with hipsters, and the coffee's  nothing to write home about, but the Sangria and late hours (till midnight on weekdays and 1 a.m. on weekends) are enough to make this coffehouse accessible to anyone who appreciates Eurpean-style cafe-sitting. 3248 22nd St. at Bartlett. (415) 642-0474.

Platanos: The food concentrates mostly on the flavors of Central America; the decor mostly on the color orange. The vibe is relaxed and casual, but it's definitely a hotspot. 598 Guerrero St. (at 18th), (415) 252-9281. (Chronicle review)

Ritual Cafe: A couple of transplants, one from Seattle, one from Portland, have teamed up to do coffee right in this "mid-Valencia" cafe. The coffee comes from Stumptown roasters in Portland for now; Ritual is planning to get on-site roasting in the near future. Exquisite detail (red and black color scheme), nice touches (hand-stamped logos on to-go cups), spaciousness, ample seating, free wireless Internet, and just plain old good coffee make Ritual a must-stop on any Mission adventure. 1026 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd street. (415) 641-1024. (Web site)

San Miguel: Squeeze yourself into a table in this family-style restaurant and transport yourself to tropical Guatemala. Everything about the room is intimate, from the straw-and reed-woven walls whose every inch is covered with memorabilia to a ceiling hung with gourds, hats, plants and colored birds. Try the tostaditas and the cak-ick turkey soup (weekends only) that comes with an entire drumstick spanning the bowl. The plato San Miguel offers steak, pork sausage, fried plantains, cheese and black beans. (-SF Chronicle) 3520 20th St. (near Mission Street); (415) 826-0173.

Senses: Contemporary with French influences. Small plates include seared shrimp served with sweet orange marmalade and an orange carrot broth shot, and muffin-style mushroom "souffles" garnished with a sweet mascarpone sorbet. Sweetness and air-whipped sauces are also present in entrees such as lobster stew and polenta foie gras with currants, which accompanies duck breast served with a foie gras emulsion. Desserts include lavender blancmange with blackberry coulis and honey-roasted peaches in a rosemary tuile. The room has bar seating for six and a communal table for up to 20. (-SF Chronicle) 1152 Valencia St. (415) 648-6000.

Taqueria Cancun: The subject of great debate over whether their burritos are awesome or overrated. Supporters favor the veggie burrito. Can be a little sketchy later at night. 2288 Mission St., near 19th Street, (415) 252-9560.

Tartine: Tartine's baked goods demand return visit after return visit. The pastry cases are filled with French-inspired wares, including lemon and banana cream tarts, lemon meringue cake and all manner of perfect cookies. And the croissants, well, even the snobbiest Francophile will have to admit perfection. There are plenty of savory offerings and sandwiches as well, built from baker Chad Robertson's breads. Quiche, hot pressed sandwiches and a swell cheese plate are among the items from which to build a lunch. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 600 Guerrero St. at 18th, (415) 487-2600.

Zagora: This new addition to the mini restaurant row on Guerrero Street concentrates on contemporary Moroccan cuisine in a warm yet understated atmosphere. Desserts and Moroccan breads are house-made. (-SF Chronicle) 1007 Guerrero St. (near 22nd Street), (415) 282-6444.

Shopping

Clothes

Ads Hats: Women's hats on the left, men's on the right. Ads Hats has walls covered with berets, pork pie and diamond crown fedoras, cloches, bucket hats, page boys, trilbies, and more, including newer styles from Kangol. Approximately one-third of Ads Hats' stock is from local designers. 758 Valencia St., between 18th and 19th streets. (415) 255-2787. (Web site).

Dema: This women's-clothing boutique stocks slim-cut, '60s-influenced designs in vivid colors and patterns. Peek into the back of the shop to see next season's line taking shape on the cutting table and the dressmaker's form. 1038 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd streets, (415) 206-0500. (Web site)    

Fabric8: This tiny, fun, colorful, hip-kitsch art gallery/T-shirt shop is an extension of the 10-year-old locally-run Fabric8.com Web site. A fake grass floor and plastic blue-sky lead you back to a small gallery space with wood-stained floors, ceilings and entry way by local artists Sirron Norris, Brian Barneclo, Ursula Young, Nomzee, and Ferris Plock. The goods include locally designed silk-screened and embroidered T-shirts, hoodies, baby T-shirts, affordable art by local painters, Japanese and Italian wind-up toys, graphic print laptop bags, art books and CD electronic beat compilations by local DJs. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3318 22nd St., (415) 487-9702. (Web site)

House of Hengst/HRM: This Valencia boutique carries two designer lines: Hengst for women, HRM for men. Store carries high-end dresses, pants, tops, skirts, jewelry, hats, and handbags. Men's line includes shirts, pants and jackets. Susan Hengst's line is designed in store, and made locally. 924 Valencia St., between 20th and 21st streets. (415) 642-0841. (Web site)

Laku: You may have noticed a cloth bench while you were waiting for a table at the sushi joint next door, or noticed lace booties in the window, but inside you'll find Yaeko Yamashita, the designer behind it all. Yamashita imports antique fabrics from Japan and sews them into shoes, bags, baby clothes, scarves and more. 1069 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd streets. (415) 695-1462. (Web site)

Minnie Wilde: Hayes Valley-based designers have opened a larger shop in the Mission, with the same red and white color scheme and much more room. The clothes are unique feminine fun, without being too cutesy - colorful, detailed pieces at decent prices. Tees around $30, fancier blouses and skirts go for $80, and even fancier pants and jackets range from $130-200. 3266 21st St., between Valencia and Mission streets. (415) 642-WILD (9453). (Web site)

Saffron Rare Threads: The first boutique from the San Francisco duo of Priya Saraswati and Yugala Priti, who are building a brand known for versatile career basics, like belted jackets, city shorts, zippered pencil skirts, fitted pant suits, drapey jersey tops and lightweight graphic-print coats. (-SF Chronicle) 3579 17th St. (Web site)

Schauplatz: Hipsters and costume-partygoers will score at this tiny vintage store. Mostly '50s-'70s garb, but Schauplatz does step it back a notch with the occasional dress from the 1920s. Fairly priced and friendly service. 791 Valencia St., between 18th and 19th streets. (415) 864-5665.

Shoe Biz: Upper Haight veteran footwear dynasty Shoe Biz branched out of its home neighborhood in 2004, opening stores in Noe Valley and the Mission. Shoe Biz-Valencia is mostly about the sneakers, colorful varieties by the hippest brands, and their windows speak to that fact creatively. 877 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets. (415) 550-8655. (Web site)

Thrift Town: There are tons of thrift stores to choose from in this area. Thrift Town happens to be the biggest, with a huge selection of clothes and a decent assortment of furniture. 2101 Mission St., at 17th Street, (415) 861-1132. (Web site) Home

The Apartment: Creaky floors and rusty piping set the mood at this furniture resale shop. The Apartment is a split-level, um, apartment, with a large showroom in front, and several smaller bedrooms on the upper level. They specialize in rustic and distressed wood pieces no newer than the 1970s. 3469 18th Street, between Valencia and Mission streets. (415) 255-1100.

The Touch: With armoirs from France and England, antique Smith-Carona, Royal, and Remington typewriters, and end tables in the $50 range, the Touch proves that it's possible to create a warm, inviting, well-priced antique furniture gallery that doesn't smell like a thrift store. 956 Valencia St., between 20th and 21st streets. (415) 550-2640. (Web site) Books, Records & Video

Aquarius Records: This small but mighty record shop stocks an eclectic selection of cutting-edge music without cultivating an intimidating atmosphere. 1055 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd streets, (415) 647-2272. (Web site)

Borderlands Books: Specializing in science fiction, fantasy and horror, this is the place to send your "Lord of the Rings"-obsessed types. The staff knows all -- even what is carved on the walls in Moria. 866 Valencia St., (415) 824-8203 or (888) 893-4008. (Web site)

Dog Eared Books: Dog Eared feels more like a cramped library than a polished bookstore, with high, closely-spaced shelves packed tight with thousands of mostly used titles. They've also got a magazine rack stocked with mostly alternative rags. Be sure to check out the hand-drawn homages to noteworthy recently-departed people on the front window. 900 Valencia St. at 20th. (415) 282-1901. (Web site)

Fayes Video: A tiny video that packs a punch. Fayes offers a wide selection of DVDs, and, if you're in the mood, great coffee and espresso drinks. Not always the friendliest service, but definitely knowledgeable and helpful. 3614 18th Street, between Guerrero and Dolores streets. (415) 522-0434.     

Force of Habit Records: Force of Habit is doing more than just filling the Mission used record store void left by Mission Record's closing and Record Collector's move to Deco Ghetto. The store specializes in obscure, hard-to-find vinyl for record geeks, but also sells CDs and VHS. It's a lotta punk, and a little of everything else. DJs and those doing home recording can find needles, cleaners, and even battery-operated portable turntables. "Kitsch corner" is a full glass display of Simpsons, Star Wars, and other pop toys. And thousands of records are priced at $2. 3565 20th St. at Lexington. (415) 255-7865. (Web site)

Little Otsu: Since their move from 16th Street, Little Otsu (formerly Otsu) has dropped its selection of vegan shoes and belts to concentrate on independent publishing. Look for handmade cards, dayplanners and wallets, plus the exclusive otsu artist t-shirt series and other gift items. 849 Valencia St., (415) 255-7900. (Web site)

Lost Weekend Video: A little bit of attitude goes a long way at Lost Weekend. Their enormous selection of DVDs and their endless knowledge of film make them good competition for internet rentals. 1034 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd streets. (415) 643-3373.

Modern Times Bookstores: A good place to buy The Noam Chomsky Reader or the latest essays by Angela Y. Davis in English or Spanish. 888 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets, (415) 282-9246. (Web site)
Food
Bi-Rite Market: Drop by this small, decades-old grocery for its limited but sterling selection of crusty breads, good produce, wine, pasta, prepared foods and fish and poultry. 3639 18th St., between Guerrero and Dolores streets, (415) 241-9773. (Web site)

Lucca Ravioli: This old-time Italian deli sells delicious homemade pasta, great cheeses and salamis. 1100 Valencia St., at 22nd Street, (415) 647-5581.

Mercado Brasil: Mercado Brasil is what its name implies: a Brazilian market. If the simple Havaianas flip-flips, cold guarana or Amazonian aca' antioxidant drink aren't enough for you, there's a travel agent in the front of the store to book you a flight to Rio. They also have delicious fruit juices, including peach, mango, passion fruit, acerola and guava. 1252 Valencia St., between 23rd and 24th streets. (415) 285-3463.


Miscellaneous


Beadissimo: Proof that there really is something for everyone in the Mission. Beadissimo carries beads from all over world, including glass from Czech Republic and Thai and Indian silver. They also hold classes on stringing, metalworking, bead-making, and chain-making in the back of the store. 1051 Valencia St., between 21st and 22nd streets. (415) 282-2323. (Web site)

Botanica Yoruba: Specializes in santeria supplies. Don't openly snicker at the curse-your-enemy candles in the store -- pious people shop here. 998 Valencia St., (415) 826-4967. (Web site)

Chamalyn: Chamalyn proves that Japanese people are so much better at cute than Americans. This off-Valencia store has candy, stationery, drinks, stickers, erasers, Pocky, Pretz and other kitschy goodies, ninety-nine percent of which are from Japan. 3491 19th Street, between Valencia and Mission streets. (415) 819-0497. 

Currents: A body products store that's as much philosophy as it is merchandise. Their homemade (in the back of the store) soaps, oils, and bath salts are made without the use of chemicals. Known especially for the bath salts, which come in such fragrances as charcoal mud, citrus joy, green tea and hibiscus peppermint. 911 Valencia St., between 20th and 21st streets. (415) 648-2015. (Web site)

 

Nightlife

12 Galaxies: Fly through 12 Galaxies and find yourself transported from working-class Mission Street outside to one of the most impressive and thoughtfully appointed venues in the district. Nearly all the sight lines are stellar -- from the sparkling art deco-esque bar or from the bar stools that line the opposite wall. Tuck yourself into a darker cranny or table near the stage or peer down from the second floor, overlooking the performers. Upstairs, distractions include a pool table, vintage arcade games and a conversation nook around a small fireplace. Here, you're as likely to find saucy burlesque acts as you are to discover local talents or take in national touring artists. (-Kimberly Chun) 2565 Mission St. (415) 970-9777. (Web site)
>
 Choice Club Grub - Local music venues offer menus that go beyond fries and nachos

Beauty Bar: Cuticles looking a little ragged? Thirsty for a retro-coiffed (but not retro-priced) cocktail? This is your consummate destination. Beauty Bar is a fun, if not quite as authentic, take on bouffant glam. And on Wednesday nights, the venue offers roaming manicurists, making this a pink-vinyl haven in the heart of the Mission corridor. (-Jan Richman) 2299 Mission St., at 19th Street, (415) 285-0323. (Web site) 

Elbo Room: This popular spot has a long bar, pool tables and a photo booth downstairs, and live music upstairs on most nights (acid jazz, hip-hop, funk and dub, to name a few genres). 647 Valencia St., between 17th and 18th streets, (415) 552-7788. (Web site) 

Latin American Club: Go to the Latin for a Make-Out Room feeling on a smaller scale. A pool table takes up most of the floor, while big, booth-side windows give patrons a view of their fellow nightcrawlers. Margaritas come in a pint glass. 3286 22nd St., between Valencia and Mission streets, (415) 647-2732. 

Lexington Club: San Francisco's best-known lesbian bar has a pool table, a good jukebox and a hip and friendly vibe. 3464 19th St., (415) 863-2052. 

Lone Palm: This hushed and elegant bar puts candles and white cloths on its tables, casting a "Casablanca" spell on its stylish clientele. It gets crowded on weekends. 3394 22nd St., at Guerrero Street, (415) 648-0109. 

Make-Out Room: This cavernous bar, which occasionally hosts local and touring bands, features a decorating scheme of animal heads and dangling lingerie. Go on a weeknight if you want to put the moves on your date in peace; on weekends the place is jammed by 10 pm. 3225 22nd St., between Valencia and Mission streets, (415) 647-2888. (Web site) 

The Marsh is a dive where respected and/or obscure solo performance artists, comedians and poets strut their stuff. 1062 Valencia St., at 22nd Street, (415) 641-0235. (Web site)

 

16th & Valencia Streets

What's It Like?

 
Some say the inner Mission District has undergone far more hipsterfication than gentrification -- the inevitable result of a surfeit of moderate rents, thrift stores, dive bars, coffeehouses, bookstores, art galleries and avant-garde theater.
The BART station at 16th and Mission is a great way to get there, but there is occasionally some parking towards 16th and South Van Ness.

 

Sights & Culture

The Roxie and Little Roxie: If you're in the mood for a flick, the Roxie consistently plays underground feature films and documentaries that you probably won't get to see anywhere else. 3117 16th St., near Valencia Street, (415) 863-1087. (Web site)
> Dark days ahead for the Roxie? (5/05)

The Lab: Visit this no-frills gallery for experimental work by emerging and established artists. Fans of graffiti artist Barry McGee, a.k.a. Twist, should drop by to see a large mural that features his evocative, hollow-eyed characters. 2948 16th St., between Mission and Capp streets, (415) 864-8855. (Web site)

The Troll Window: A first-floor apartment window on 18th Street near Valencia acts as showcase and stage for a cast of wild-haired troll dolls, which appear in monthly scenes reflecting upcoming holidays or current events in popular culture. 18th St., between Valencia and Mission streets.

Victoria Theatre: Built in 1908, this San Francisco landmark and former vaudeville house stages plays, shows films and hosts lectures and readings, mostly tending toward to avant-garde. 2961 16th St., at Capp Street, (415) 863-7576. (Web site)

 

Restaurants

Andalu: The sky and cloud mural on the ceiling at Andalu invites a hip and youthful crowd for eccentric tapas. Crowd faves are Coca-Cola braised ribs, baby beet, blood orange and arugula salad, and Castillian hot chocolate and donut hole for dessert. Portions are small, even by tapas standards, and prices add up quickly, but the quirky combinations and careful preparation make it a nice treat. 3198 16th St. at Guerrero. (415) 621-2211. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Al Hamra: An unpretentious tandoori restaurant, where the meat is halal, or certified to fit Muslim dietary law. You order at a counter that wraps around two tandoor ovens. And then the amazing food arrives: naan with two squeeze bottles of house-made chutneys -- fiery mint and a fruity, true-to-flavor tamarind -- plus tandoori, curries and vegetarian specials. Al Hamra does a ripping takeout business, but  manages to create dishes that taste of care and subtlety. (Read full Chronicle write-up) 3083 16th St. (near Mission), (415) 621-3935.

Arinell Pizza: Cheap NY-style pizza with an ultrathin, crispy crust. Completely no-frills space and a punk rock attitude. 509 Valencia St. at 16th, (415) 255-1303.

Bar Tartine: This second location of the popular Guerrero Street bakery combines Tartine's Californian-Mediterranean style menu with a wine bar. Dark wood floors and tables, accented by creamy walls and a long bar overlooking the open kitchen. Dinner is served Tuesday-Sunday, with lunch coming soon. (-SF Chronicle) 561 Valencia St. (near 16th Street), (415) 487-1600. (Web site)

Cafe Istanbul and Amira: For lesser-quality Middle Eastern food but better atmosphere (including belly dancers), seat yourself on one of the red cushions at either of these twin restaurants (only a block from each other) Istanbul: 525 Valencia St., (415) 863-8854. Amira: 590 Valencia St., (415) 621-6213.     

Cafe Macondo: If you'd rather sip a Mexican chocolate than booze and want to get a feel for what this corner of the Mission was like when brooding intellectuals and hard-nosed leftists ruled it a few years ago, stop by this café -- but get there before 9 pm, when it closes. 3159 16th St., (415) 431-7516.

Country Station Sushi: Owner Hiroko Tamano morphed what was once a tiny burger joint into a playful sushi joint. The tables are circa 1970, but the food is a mix of modern sushi and Japanese down-home cooking. The servers and chefs couldn't be more gracious. There are also seats on one of two platforms, if you'd rather eat cross-legged and sans shoes. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 12140 Mission St. (at Sycamore), (415) 861-0972. (Chronicle review)

El Toro Taqueria: El Toro (part of the Pancho Villa family) is a little pricey, but overall a nice, sunny corner taqueria. They slice (rather than dice) their tomatoes, the tortillas are a little thin, they lack the refried black bean appeal of their sister taqueria, and it's typically crowded enough that you may be holding your mojado burrito a minute or two. But the nachos and agua fresca are a safe bet, and the fresh salsa bar make it worth the wait. Oddities include beef with nopales (cactus). 598 Valencia St. at 17th. (415) 431-3351.

Il Cantuccio: The Mission isn't exactly known for its Italian delights, but Cantuccio provides a nice alternative to Mexican or Asian. This tiny, intimate ristorante serves up delicious antipasti, pasta, pizza, and ravioli dishes. Pizza is thin crust, and special raviolis include pumpkin and ricotta in sage butter sauce. Service is incredibly friendly, though very Italian (read: they take their time). 3228 16th St., between Dolores and Guerrero streets. (415) 861-3899.

Levende: Dark red walls, a crystal chandelier and cushy leather ottomans sidling up to dark mahogany tables set a plush, cozy scene at this nightclub-restaurant hybrid. A mounted flat screen TV loops a movie of tropical fish while diners dig into small plates with Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian influences. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1710 Mission St. (at Duboce), (415) 864-5585. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Limon: Peruvian-inspired cuisine, such as ceviches and lomo saltado, with California ingredients. Chef Martin Castillo and his family have collectively have worked at Aqua, Rubicon, Mecca, Sol y Luna and ThirstyBear. This new space, with high ceilings and long bar, has a spacious feel, and it's also retained the lively lime green and tangerine color scheme of the old (17th and Valencia) location. 524 Valencia St. (between 16th and 17th streets), (415) 252-0918. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Little Star Pizza: Be it deep-dish or thin crust you seek, this pizzaria will steal your heart—and stomach. Try the thin-crust White Pie, delivered to the table bubbling hot, with a shatteringly crisp crust blanketed with a smidge of tomato sauce and topped with feta, mozzarella, tomatoes and zucchini. 400 Valencia St., at 15th St., (415) 551-7827. (Chronicle review)

Maverick American Eatery & Wine Bar: The food is American with coast-to-coast inspiration -- think dishes like Baltimore crab fluffs to pan-roasted wild Columbia River sturgeon -- while the wine list encompasses the world. The cozy space has tall wood-framed windows that brighten the dark chocolate brown and warm pumpkin-colored walls and oak floor. Down-home desserts include peach crisp a la mode and a root beer float. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3316 17th St. (between Mission and Valencia), (415) 863-3061. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Panchitas #2: This is a friendly place for Salvadoran food (including pupusas -- basically, corn pancakes with cheese) and delicious tropical fruit juices. 3091 16th St. (415) 431-4232.

Pakwan: This Tandoor-loin favorite's Mission outpost has the same good, spicy Pakistani food and the same no-frills, order-at-the-counter, get-your-own-silverware service, but definitely has Mission crowds. Try the eggplant bengan bharta Pakwan style, the chicken makhani or the lamb achar gosht. 3182 16th St. (near Guerrero); (415) 255-2440. (Chronicle review)

Picaro: This place is always hoppin' and dishes up good tapas and a potent sangria. 3120 16th St., near Valencia St., (415) 431-4089.

Pork Store Cafe Valencia: Famous for their location in the Haight, the Pork Store opened up shop in former Bitteroot location. Outdoor seating, plenty of greasy breakfast items, and a full bar help the hungover hipster crowd. Menu highlights include vegetarian chorizo, potato pancakes, mimosas and Bloody Marys (who could ask for better hangover medicine?). 3122 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 626-5523.

Puerto Alegre: Secondary perhaps to individual taqueria preferences in SF is a person's sit-down Mexican favorite. Puerto Alegre is at the top of its game, offering some of the best margaritas, chile rellenos, mojado burritos, quesadillas, and chips and salsa in town. Expect a lengthy wait most evenings, especially Friday and Saturday, which can be eased with a drink at a couple of nearby bars. Atmosphere is loud and crazy, as it should be, with occasional visits from neighborhood Mariachi bands. 546 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets. (415) 255-8201.

Regalito Rosticeria: This colorful, Mexico City–style cafe serves regional Mexican with an eco-friendly ingredient twist: free-range chicken and Nieman Ranch beef. Standouts include the chile verde and pollo con mole negro, happily paired with a kicky agave margarita. 3481 18th St., at Valencia St., (415) 503-0650. Closed Mondays. (Chronicle review | Website )

The Sunflower: Tasty, hearty Vietnamese food at low prices. The setting is simple but comfortable, and the staff is friendly. 3111 16th St. (additional entrance at 506 Valencia St.), (415) 626-5022.

Ti Couz: Sweet or savory, this Breton-style creperie makes them thin and serves them fresh. Basic 
buckwheat (savory) or wheat (sweet) crepes with butter start at $2 and tick upward with each addition. Try a dessert in a glass: a crunchy crepe cone with choice of assorted gelatos, sorbets, mousses and fruit compotes. Cold seafood, charcuterie and cheese plates also available. (-SF Chronicle) 3108 16th St., near Valencia St., (415) 252-7273. (Chronicle review)

Tokyo Go-Go: Excellent seasonal sushi and small plates, including signature tuna tartare, Kobe beef tataki and seasonal specials. Fun and offbeat decor. For happy hour, the restaurant offers $3 hand rolls to munch with cocktails. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3174 16th St., (415) 864-2288. (Chronicle review)

Truly Mediterranean: Some of the best falafel in the Bay Area can be found at Truly Mediterranean. Most sandwiches are wrapped in big pieces of thin flatbread, stuffed with shawarma or falafel and tahini sauce and onions. Say yes when your falafel maker asks if you want hot sauce; extra eggplant or fried potatoes (50 cents each) also are a nice touch. This is a great place for vegetarians and for night owls, as it's open until midnight Friday and Saturday and 11 p.m. Monday-Thursday. (-SF Chronicle) 3109 16th St., (415) 252-7482. (Bargain Bites 2004)

Yamo: A tiny, counter-only Burmese restaurant. The food fuses the tastes of India and China in dishes like spiced fried rice and wok-tossed noodles with curry, both specialties. The place is family run and owned, and there can be waits as the orders pile up and two cooks hover furiously over the tiny stove, but the owner and customers seem happy to socialize. There's a good dose of spice in most of the food, so ask the staff to pop open the top of a fresh young coconut to cool your palate. 3406 18th St., (415) 553-8911. (Chronicle review)

 

Shopping

Clothes, Accessories, Etc.
Candy Store: Before 7-11s and corner stores, people got candy all in one shop. That's the idea behind this newly-opened store that sells a little bit of everything for women. You can shop for women's shoes, clothes (ranging from $34 for shirts to $160 for dresses) and accessories, plus inexpensive retro-y gifts like shot glasses, sunglass cases and stationery. You can, in fact, also buy candy -- behind the register in old-time glass canisters are hard-to-find candy necklaces, Gold Mine gum, wax lips, Abba Zaba taffy and more. 3153 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 863-8143. (Web site)

Clothes Contact: The starting point for the hipster looking for that authentically distressed '60s leather jacket, golf sweater or super-tacky polyester ensemble. Many items are sold by the pound or the sackful at this cavernous store, which gives starving artists the opportunity to load up on style. (-SF Chronicle) 473 Valencia St., (415) 621-3212.

Hideo Wakamatsu USA: Star luggage designer Hideo Wakamatsu's first U.S. store welcomes customers with an automated voice biding "Welcome" in Japanese. Travel accessories include suitcases, backpacks, small bags, briefcases, and messenger bags. Known for hard-sided cases made out of ABS plastic and colorful prints, Wakamatsu aims to make the "getting there" part of travel more fun. Most lines range from around $175 to $350. 563 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets. (415) 255-3029. (Web site)

Idol Vintage: The '80s have returned with a vengeance, and no store is more up on the decade than Idol Vintage, which boasts leg warmers, boxy sweaters and sweatshirts ripe for the "Flashdance" treatment. Those looking to add just the right retro accents browse leisurely through racks of coats, pants, sweatshirts, jeans, dresses and slips. Don't forget to check out the belt buckles, jewelry cases and  other relics you thought you'd never see again. (-SF Chronicle) 3162 16th St., (415) 255-9959.

Sunhee Moon: Local designer Sunhee Moon's well-made women's line includes pants, skirts, and tops in classic, clean cuts. Her clothes are somewhere between dress-casual and professional, and are priced in the mid-range ($98 for tops and skirts). Items are neatly arranged by color around the periphery of the store. Accessories all come from local designers, and all of Moon's clothes are made in the area. 3167 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 355-1800. (Web site)

Home

Aldea: Owner Johanna Bialkin calls her style "urban organic," and the store's pieces reflect her world travels. Some standouts include tin and beaded wall lights and chandeliers from Morocco; a table and lounge chair by Virginian Anthony Brozna, exclusive to Aldea; and silk-quilted bedcovers in four color combinations from Dreamsacks. Much of the store's glassware -- drinking glasses, vases and bowls -- is made by a collaborative of Portuguese glassblowers known as Mglass. Stay tuned for seasonally-changing room vignettes, meet-the-artist receptions, revolving gallery exhibitions and products that support nonprofit groups. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3338 17th St. (between Valencia and Mission), (415) 865-9807. (Web site)

Architectural Elements: Modern-contemporary furniture made by a number of high-end designers comes in shapes of clean, geometric glass, fabric and wood. The natural-light and white wall store feels a bit like a museum, where you can't touch anything, either because it's too delicate or too expensive. But a few ceramic vases, candles and body lotions and soaps in the $20 range rest along the back wall. 573 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th street. (415) 252-8370. (Web site)

Therapy: Specializing in everything retro-contemporary, this eclectic store stocks a tempting array of new and used furniture, home accessories, kitschy knickknacks and clothing. 545 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets, (415) 861-6213.

Books, etc.
Adobe Book Shop: This musty, dusty museum of a used bookstore is a Mission must. The backroom gallery features obscure local artists, and Adobe often opens the shop at night for live music. Be careful not to trip over anything, as the aisles are very narrow, but surprise yourself by grabbing a random book off the shelf and plop down in one of their (perhaps too) comfortable chairs. 3166 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia street. (415) 864-3936 (Web site)

Good Vibrations: This friendly, women-owned sex-toy store is legendary for providing goods and information for men and women of all sexual persuasions. Check the Web site for a listing of upcoming  classes and workshops. 603 Valencia Street (at 17th Street), (415) 522-5460 (Web site)

Needles and Pens: This book and zine shop has a do-it-yourself vibe. The "needles" refers to homemade clothes and accessories, including knit scarves and locally designed shirts. The "pens," of course, implies writing. Browse a wide variety of local and national glossies and Xeroxed readables. 3253 16th St., (415) 255-1534 (Web site)

Paxton Gate: At first glance, Paxton Gate appears to be a sort of independent Nature Company-type place, but on closer scrutiny, customers begin to notice the large display of unusual insects mounted on pins and various taxidermed creatures, some in dramatic costumes and poses. 824 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets, (415) 824-1872. (Web site)

Socialist Action Bookstore: The place to go for an undiluted dose of Marx, Malcolm X, Che Guevara and their ilk. Catch up on the latest plot to overthrow the government or oppress workers, or read up on capitalism or the history of labor strikes. (-Bonnie Wach) 298 Valencia St., (415) 255-1081. (Web site)     

 

Nightlife

Blondie's Bar and No Grill: Purple neon decor, sidewalk seating and an extensive martini menu distinguish this see-and-be-seen Mission hangout, which is often ridiculously overcrowded on weekends. 540 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets, (415) 864-2419.

Casanova: A lounge in the essential sleazy/kitschy/slick sense of the word, with tongue-in-cheek decor that somehow ventures into classy. Behind the bar, you'll find local microbrews as well as the classics on tap, and an unusual cocktail special that changes daily. On Friday and Saturday nights, the place often goes beyond comfortably crowded and borders on spring break-ish. (-Jan Richman) 527 Valencia St., near 16th Street, (415) 863-9328.

Dalva: This hipster haven, which serves a good, fruit-laden sangria, has a long bar in a narrow, high-ceilinged space, with a more intimate room tucked away in the back. 3121 16th St., between Valencia and Guerrero streets, (415) 252-7740. (Web site)

Delerium: A dive bar for the Marina-Mission types. A smaller, perhaps divier alternative to the rockers across the street at Kilowatt. Cheap drinks make this a good place to start the night. 3139 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 552-5525.

Esta Noche: Latino transvestites flock here for rousing nightly drag shows. 3079 16th St., at Mission Street (415) 861-5757.

The Uptown: The unpretentious Uptown has some broken-down sofas to lounge on, in addition to booths, with a pool table in the other room. The clientele often includes a strong bike-messenger element. 200 Capp St., at 18th Street, (415) 861-8231. 





Mission to Potrero

Atlas Cafe's Thursday night bluegrass jam is open to anyone who wants to play -- onstage or in the crowd.

What's It Like?

Not so long ago, there wasn't much to draw visitors to this residential and industrial area of the Mission. However, changes in the city caused a crop of Internet startups to spring up around the Potrero Hill side of the Mission, and with them a flock of chic restaurants and bars. In spite of the surviving businesses and the controversial live/work lofts that are also rapidly filling this neighborhood's empty lots, the area also remains a stronghold of artists and working-class families, though the coexistence of these diverse elements is at times uneasy.

Sights & Culture

CELLspace: On the outside, CELLspace is a facade of murals. On the inside, it's a mixed-use space that is home to a variety of free classes in breakdancing, lo-rider bicycle construction, salsa and merengue dancing, and more. There's the Crucible Steel gallery in the front of the space, which exhibits local emerging artists on a roughly monthly basis. And there are concerts, parties, plays, fundraisers and a free after-school program. Check the Web site for class and gallery information. 2050 Bryant St., between 18th and 19th streets. (415) 648-7562.

Project Artaud: This vast arts complex houses dozens of live/work artist spaces as well as several organizations, such as the Southern Exposure Gallery, A Traveling Jewish Theater and the Theater of Yugen. The Project Artaud Theater, which hosts a wide array of shows and events, is available for rental as a performance/rehearsal facility. 499 Alabama St. (415) 621-4240. (Web site)

Maddie's Pet Adoption Center: Named after a benefactor's beloved little dog, the San Francisco SPCA's deluxe adoption center is worth a visit in itself for its spacious (and controversial) animal accommodations, but the resident dogs and cats will be happy to see you, too. 2500 16th St., at Florida Street, (415) 554-3000. (Web site)

Restaurants


Atlas Cafe: Baked beet sandwiches and banjo music make the Atlas Cafe a neighborhood standout. Add in a popular outdoor patio, top-notch reading material and strong coffee, and you've got a hipster hangout par excellence. Although vegetarian and vegan offerings make up about half the chalkboard menu, selections like the grilled Cuban beef sandwich and mayo-less tuna with coconut and nori also have strong followings. A smattering of pizzas such as goat cheese and apple make a satisfying, shareable snack. Every Thursday is bluegrass night. Get there early to put your order in and nab one of the coveted small tables or seats along the corrugated counter. (-SF Chronicle) 3049 20th St., at Alabama Street, (415) 648-1047. (Web site)

Bar Bambino: A epicure's oasis on an otherwise dicey block, this tiny restaurant specializes in shareable plates such as eggplant meatballs ($13.50) and rabbit ragout with pappardelle ($13.50). Order a glass of vino from the adventuresome all-Italian wine list and head to the communal table for a cozy-chic vibe. 2931 16th St., near Capp, (415) 701-8466. (Chronicle review | Web site)

Bissap Baobab: Endure long waits at this unpretentious Senegalese restaurant with an exotic drink from the bar, like a hibiscus margarita or a fresh ginger, lime juice, and vodka mixer. Affordable menu (entrees between $7 and $11) is vegetarian friendly, with assorted kebabs and sauce-infused dishes served with rice on the side. Don't start your meal without trying fried plantains and tamarind sauce. 2323 Mission St., between 19th and 20th streets. (415) 401-0641. (Web site)

Cafe Gratitude: A sunny vegan-raw-organic restaurant with a self-affirming menu that includes "I Am Thankful" spicy coconut curry soup with shiitake mushrooms and an "I Am Worthy" health drink of kale, beet, celery, apple and ginger. For dessert, try one of the frozen nut cremes, made in a hand-cranked ice cream maker at your table. 2400 Harrison St. (at 20th Street), (415) 824-4652. (Web site)
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 Jon Carroll loves Cafe Gratitude

Blowfish Sushi to Die For: Creative sushi rolls and a sleek decor of Japanese anime pictures make the near-fatal prices of the Blowfish menu worth it, if you're up for an evening of glossy Asian kitsch. 2170 Bryant St., at 20th Street, (415) 285-3848. (Chronicle review)

Circolo: With a cushy lounge and dramatic bar, a sophisticated Latino-Asian menu and a dancing-party space, Circolo has brought a little flash back to Multimedia Gulch. Martin and Antonio Castillo from Limon created a menu with plenty of starters and small plates, while pastry chef Todd Bauer, formerly of Asia de Cuba, tops things off with desserts such as a lime tart with a strawberry milkshake. Food served until 1 a.m. Thursday-Saturday. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 500 Florida (at Mariposa), (415) 553-8560. (Chronicle review)

El Metate: Seating is limited at this tropical-looking taqueria, where everything is made from scratch. Standouts include a quesadilla filled with chicken and three kinds of cheese, served with guacamole and salsa. Also exceptional are the soft tacos with velvety pork in a tangy chile verde sauce. (-SF Chronicle) 2406 Bryant St. (near 22nd Street), (415) 641-7209. (Bargain Bites 2004)

El Tonayense Taco Trucks: It's all about the tacos at these lunch trucks parked along Harrison Street and Shotwell. The irresistible meats, including rich carnitas and well-seasoned al pastor (marinated pork) are piled atop mini corn tortillas and topped with chopped onion and cilantro. Be sure to order at least two of the $1.50 tacos; many customers walk away with at least three or four. The trucks open at 9:30 a.m. daily, in case you get pre-lunch taco craving. (-SF Chronicle) At the corners of Harrison and 19th streets, Harrison and 22nd streets, and Shotwell and 16th streets. (Bargain Bites 2004)

Florida Street Cafe: Staffed by recent graduates of the Latino Cuisine Culinary Academy, this breakfast and lunch cafe has an open kitchen, wood floors and friendly, though informal, service. Lunch might include a Cuban-style sandwich or pork chops with papaya salsa, rice and black beans. But the real deal is in the morning, with breakfast burritos for $1. (-SF Chronicle) 710 Florida St. (at 19th Street), (415) 648-5227.

Los Jarritos: A good place for breakfast, and a favorite is Machaca: beef, peppers, and tomatoes sauteed with egg. Try it with a glass of fresh-squeezed OJ. Also, if menudo on the weekends is your thing, Los Jarritos is the place to get it. Service and atmosphere are just above mediocre. 901 South Van Ness Ave. at 20th. (415) 648-8383.

Universal Cafe: Soulful combinations of American food, with a focus on the local and seasonal, is served in a sleek yet intimate industrial space. Prices are mid-range. Server friendliness seems to vary. (SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 2814 19th St. (between Florida and Bryant streets), (415) 821-4608. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Shopping


Atelier Posey et Susan: Local artists Posey and Susan Tibbon share this hole-in-the-wall shop and studio, where everything they sell they make themselves, often with scrounged or recycled materials. Although the shop is a showcase of the Tibbons' constant inventiveness, some items are mainstays. They always have art gift pieces, home decor items, seasonal or holiday things and sewn things. (-SF Chronicle) 2720 16th St. (at Harrison), San Francisco. (415) 776-6367. (Web site)

Pedal Revolution: This no-glitz bike shop sells new and used parts and offers a selection of new, custom-built and refurbished bicycles. They're happy to take on challenging projects, and they also offer free repair classes. Their social mission includes a youth-apprenticeship program and a drop-in center for street kids. 3085 21st St., (415) 641-1264. (Web site)

Rainbow Grocery Cooperative: This worker-owner cooperative isn't just a grocery; it embodies a distinct Bay Area lifestyle. Shop Rainbow's enormous warehouse space for organic produce, bulk foods, fancy cheeses, herbal remedies and kitchen items, or troll the store's community boards  for a like-minded vegan conservationist roommate. 1745 Folsom St., at 13th Street, (415) 863-0620. (Web site)

 

Nightlife


The Monkey Club: A quasi Middle Eastern vibe inlcudes Arabic lettering on the wall and a few food-menu items like Lebanese mazza and lamb kabobs. Weeknights are quiet, but weekend nights with DJs fill up with a mix of locals and bridge-and-tunnelers. The somewhat pricey but creative mixed drinks, which are $2 cheaper during happy hour (5 pm-8 pm), all have names to mesh with the primate theme. (-Lisa Zaffarese, SF Gate) 2730 21st St., (415) 647-2144.

Rite-Spot Cafe: Rumor has it that Tom Waits comes here when he's in San Francisco, but even if that's not the case, the white-clothed tables and occasional piano music at this Mission restaurant and speakeasy make it worth a stop. 2099 Folsom St., at 17th Street, (415) 552-6066.

Shotwell 59: This beer-and-wine pub draws dog owners and bikers in particular, but everyone is welcome to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, pool table and popcorn machine (just ask for a dish). 3349 20th St., at Shotwell Street, (415) 647-1141.

About Inner Mission




The Mission is one of San Francisco's most vital neighborhoods. Grand, century-old homes can still be found along the sunny palm tree-lined Dolores, Church, and Guerrero Streets. Smaller Victorian cottages dot the intimate, quiet cross streets and alleys.


To learn more, visit our San Francisco real estate market conditions page or scroll down to begin browsing our listings of homes for sale in the Inner Mission.